Alps so far

Having a great trip, done some great ski touring, climbed some alpine rock but now on the Italian Riviera sport climbing....escaping the bad weather in the mountains!

Keep on winter climbing but that is enough for me!

For me the winter season has come to an end once again.  This has been my best winter ever!  A combination of fantastic conditions, lots of psyched climbing partners, very willing clients and great employers has meant I have climbed 82 winter climbs and had over 100 days out this winter.  I just want to say thank you to all my employers for the winter - Martin Moran, Glenmore Lodge, Abacus Mountain Guides, Skye Guides and Tarmachan Mountaineering.  A massive thank you to all my clients both new and old.  Especially those who were keen to explore new places and climb routes I have never done before.  Seeking out new routes is one of the highlights of my work.  Most of all I would like to thank all the climbing partners that came out with me on my days off - Kenny Grant, Murdoch Jamieson, Donald King, Blair Fyffe, Keith Ball, Martin Moran, Al Halewood, Mike Lates, Craig Mackay, John Orr, Guy Buckingham and Ewan Rodgers.  These days I will remember for a long time.

So im going to take a little bit of time off and go skiing and climbing in the Alps.  All this winter fitness will need to be put to good use.  I will update this now and again but I'm not promising anything!  I hope everyone enjoys the rest of the winter and has a great spring.  Get outside, stay healthy and smile!  See you all soon!

Boomer's Requium

 Today was my last day out with John and my final day out this winter season.  After yesterdays grade V John and I were keen to do one more before we finish.  Today we climbed Boomer's Requium (V,5) which is such a brilliant route.  The crux pitch is nice and steep with an option to bridge out if arms are not feeling super strong.  The upper pitches have been catching the sun and softened up quite alot but didnt cause any issues.  On the last section where we moved together, John got hit by a lump of oce on this leg which meant for a slow hobble down the Red Burn as he didnt fancy down climbing Number 4.  It was another stunning day and a brilliant route to wrap up my winter season.

Point 5 Gully

Day 4 of John's climbing course and today we reached his ultimate goal of climbing (cruising) Grade V.  So what to do tomorrow?  Consolidate on grade V of course.  So which one to do...?  Everyone was out today...it was ace!  Mike was on Orion as well as Max, Ally was on Minus 3, James was on Astral Highway and then did Zero Gully.  Teams on Indicator Wall too as well as several folk out enjoying the great weather.

Number 6 Gully

Team ahead making swift work of the crux

Speedy clove hitch trickery

John pulling out of the crux pitch

John pointing to his home

SCNL was deserted

Saw a couple of solo walkers...what a day for it!

John was keen for a mid week break from Ben Nevis so we ended up in Glencoe.  John liked the idea of Number 6 Gully (IV,4) as it had a short walk in and its not a massive day.... (un)Fortunately it didn't pan out that way.  We had agreed that we would take it easy today and not have a massive day, so we have energy for two more days on Ben Nevis.  On Number 6 Gully, we took the line of most resistance and practised more specific steep ice climbing techniques.  At the top of the route, instead of traversing off we just kept climbing, and climbing and climbing until we found ourselves on top of Stop Coire nan Lochain, one of the finest peaks in the area.  So there goes our 'rest day'!  Calves were burning with lactic acid, face's were burning with the suns rays but it was so worth it.  SCNL has to be one of my favourite summits with stunning views in all directions.  It was a brilliant top out!  The descent was so easy too, with plenty of steep soft snow to bounce down back into the coire below Bidean and back onto the path.  On another note....Elliot's Downfall is getting there....oh and on another note...today's climb was my 80th route of the season...best winter ever!

North Gully

John leading the first pitch

Happy at the second belay...loving leading

Loving winter climbing!

Loving the moment!

Easy peesy for someone as cool as John!

Big Day for John today!  Leading day!  We had Jenny along who was going to be a willing belayer and also to climb here first ever winter climb!  It was definitely going to be a good day had by all!  We were all able to solo up to the base of North Gully (II) where John created a strong belay for us all to attach into and get ourselves organised.  With a stance cut, ropes flaked and plan made, John set off on his first lead.  He instantly spotted the first runner, crucial to protect the belay.  This gave confidence as he moved up into the steeper ground.  Ice screws were going in like a dream and John's climbing was very steady, it was great to watch.  Belay didn't take long to make.  John led 5 contrasting pitches as I soloed next to him helping and coaching where he needed.  As Jenny climbed up, John and I could both see that she was really enjoying the experience.  She cruised up every pitch and didn't even get cold...amazing!  After topping out we made the 20 minute walk up to the summit for more stunning views.  We have been blessed with several of these over the last week!  A great day for both John and Jenny and very enjoyable for me too.

Green Gully

John snug on his belay with his green jacket on Green Gully

Powering up the route!

Mileage!

Its.....just....amazing...!

Today I was back out with John for the first day of his 5 days winter climbing.  The plan for the week is a bit of mileage  a bit of leading, a bit more mileage and some grade V action, something John has been really keen to get involved with.  We started our week on the classic Green Gully (IV,4) which gave great climbing in a very quiet Coire   It was great to be climbing this route without getting bombarded from other folk.  The left hand finish at the top give a direct finish and a wee bit more ice climbing and is well worth doing.  From the top we headed straight for Number 4 gully for our descent and also to check out the route that John will lead tomorrow.  Another stunning day!

Orion Direct

Day two of Rich's grade V campaign and we wanted to finish with a bang.  With yesterdays brilliant day with two classic grade V's we thought we would opt for on of the longest grade V's on the Ben.  By no means the hardest but felt very long after yesterdays mega day.  We opted for Orion Direct (V,5) which we had all to ourselves.  A rarity in such good conditions.  Conditions were great on the route, I felt the crux was getting thin which made the route more sporting and enjoyable!  A brilliant day.  The summit was busy with walkers but the north face cliffs were quiet...where is everyone...conditions are great!

Boomer's Requiem and Vanishing Gully

Place to ourselves 

Rich on the first pitch of Boomer's

This Easter weekend I am working for Abacus Mountain Guides.  Today Rich and I headed into Ben Nevis to seek out some grade V action.  I was quite surprised to see how few folk were ahead of us.  We observed that there was nobody in the Boomer's/Compression area so we bolted of the path and headed up for Boomer's Requiem (V,5).  On arrival to the route there wasn't a soul in sight, we had the place to ourselves...perfect! Everything was perfect, the ice, the climbing, the belays, the gear, the company, the weather, the situation, the temperature!  The crux pitch was brilliant and very steep!  We loved it!  So good to do another Nevis classic that I have never done.  Ice climbing on the Ben is the best!  On the top we saw chains of walkers on the tourist route enjoying the great weather and condition's so we decided not to go and summit but instead we went for another route.  We descended Number 4 gully after watching a parapentist/parachute person fly over our heads and we traversed into Vanishing Gully (V,5).  This was still in great condition and ace fun to climb.  Well hooked and stepped but still felt steep!  A couple of abseils saw us back to the bags and walking out with massive smiles on our faces!  A great day!  Cant wait for more action tomorrow!!

Spot the air born person

Rich on Vanishing Gully

Best place in the UK

Carn Dearg Cascade and Waterfall Gully and Ledge Route and Number 4

Day two out with John and today we were consolidating more on grade IV.  We started off on the Carn Dearg cascade (III) which gave a fantastic pitch of ice climbing and gave us a great approach to the main climb.  John participated in a course with Jagged Globe a wee while ago and spent the day doing the first pitch of Waterfall Gully (IV,4).  So today we finished it off.  It was brilliant to climb into this section of the mountain.  I never been up this route,it was a very atmospheric experience, a very worth wile journey.  There was fantastic climbing higher up on the route, after a nice easy section, which traversed out right from a cosy cave belay.  The direct finish to Waterfall Gully (VI,6) looks well cool, not in condition but a brilliant feature, keen to try that next year if it comes in conditions.  We joined Ledge Route above the crux section so ditched the rope and rack and soloed up to the top.  Which amazing views and such a clear day we pressed onto the summit, passing many other out enjoying a spot of Good Friday climbing.  Weather is looking good for the weekend, snow is stabilising and conditions are good.  Make sure you get up early, its going to be busy!

Crowberry Gully

Easy terrain into the route

A fantastic route

36 hours ago he was in Nigeria, today John was standing with me on the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe.  We climbed the classic route Crowberry Gully (IV,4).  It was a brilliant route, I have been wanting to climb this for quite a long time and was perfect for John as he want to consolidate on grade IV's and work towards grade V.  We have 7 days (with a weekend break) to do this!  The route was thin in places, clearly had quite alot of traffic but with a delicate touch then it is still great fun.  We pretty much had the route to ourselves  one team were with us on the route but we never got in each others way.  The weather has been perfect for us, conditions are great with so many options to go for this coming Easter.  Other teams were enjoying alpine conditions on Curved Ridge and I saw the remains of Blair who was digging pits for the avalanche forecast.  Looked like lots of teams on Number 6 Gully and Blue Ribband is looking good!

John finishing off the crux

I told him to stop picking his nose!

Easy peasy descent

Loots more photos HERE!

Sgurr Finnisg-aig Falls

Smoking the White Owl - Yuk!

Alan swinging to glory

Back out with Alan today who has had a good old rest after our day out on Monday.  Blue skies, cold temperatures and light winds was what everyone in Lochaber woke up to. It was great to be out climbing a frozen waterfall.  I have never climbed this well talked about route.  Named 'Smoking the White Owl' (IV,4), it was a great route on water ice which had some really good climbing and some tricky pitches. Last week I heard that there were 10 teams on the route which would have been carnage, on arrival to the climb we had the whole place to ourselves and after a pitch, Al and his client turned up to make the most of the accessible ice route.  It didn't take long to climb the route so Alan and I enjoyed lunch at the gondola station watching all the skiers work their magic   The pistes look brilliant and they were pretty much deserted.  Many 'Saga' members around who have got the Gondola up for the 'mountain experience'.  I over heard one phone call where they were saying that they were half way up Ben Nevis....I didn't break the bad news to them but it was tempting!  More blue skies, minimal winds and amazing ice routes to climb tomorrow.  I think its going to be busy in the mountains over Easter!

Me at the top of the steep pitch

A deserted ski area

The Long Climb Finish

No gear in there...

Looks like today is going to be my last day winter climbing on my days off as for the next wee while I'm working and then off to the Alps.  Today was a perfect finish to a great season of winter climbing.  My first route of the season was back in October with Kenny so it was great to be doing the last route of the season with him too.  We had lots of options in mind but we thought a quick route up the Orion Face would do us just fine.  We soloed up Orion Direct (V,5) to the snow basin, chucked the ropes on and climbed The Long Climb Finish (VI,5).  Kenny made a great lead up the crux pitch, not really bothering with protection to the belay which took a while to dig out.  Its a really cool slab of thin ice which was in great condition, good axes and good feet for a thinly iced slab.  The mountain is still in great condition with loads of routes to go for.  All the Minus Gullies were getting climbed today and they looked great.  The main gully lines are really fat and the thin face ice routes are well worth getting stuck into.  With several patches of wind slab around, care is required with route choice.  We were able to safely get onto Orion and come down Coire Leis.  A great day which has got me super psyched for the next 10 days of climbing classic grade IV and V ice routes!

Absolutely ace picking up there!

'Putting a screw in'...'ok'....'it's shit'....'ok'

Airy climbing